How to Choose Hardwood Floors: A Complete Guide

The choice of flooring is one of the most basic yet important decisions a homeowner has to make when undertaking a renovation, as it underpins everything else. While there are plenty of different options, from carpet to terrazzo, one material is the acknowledged standard: hardwood. But not all hardwood flooring is created equal, and selecting a product isn’t simply a matter of choosing a preferred color. A range of other factors can have an impact on both aesthetics and performance.

How to Choose Hardwood Flooring

Select Solid or Engineered Flooring

Traditionally, hardwood flooring came in thick planks of solid timber. Today, solid hardwood is still widely available, but many companies also offer engineered flooring—planks made with a thinner top layer of hardwood, bonded to other layers designed to prevent the floor from shifting during expansion and contraction cycles. “All wood moves in three directions: There’s tangential, radial, and longitudinal movement,” says director of product management. “With engineered products, you’re creating opposing forces within the board to try to restrict the natural movement of the wood.” For basements and apartments with concrete subfloors, engineered flooring offers an installation advantage. Whereas solid wood is generally installed over one or two layers of plywood, which can raise the height of a floor and interfere with existing doors or marginally reduce ceiling height, “engineered flooring can be glued directly to concrete, or over a soundproofing mat,” says master antique & millwork refinisher. “It’s also suitable for installation over radiant heat.” But choose carefully because some engineered floors have top layers so thin that they can’t be sanded and refinished in the future. Higher-quality products feature a thicker layer where “you’re getting as much usable wood as you would out of a solid board,” says master antique & millwork refinisher, noting that with solid hardwood, “you can only use the part above the tongue and groove for refinishing.” 

Despite the advantages of engineered flooring, some homeowners still prefer solid wood. “There’s something about a solid hardwood that’s a tangible difference,” says partner of an interior design firm. “You can feel it underfoot, and it’s quieter.”

Choose Prefinished or Site Finish

Hardwood planks can be purchased with a raw face that gets finished by a professional after installation, or prefinished, which arrives with the stain and topcoat already applied. The advantage of prefinished wood is that “you know exactly what you’re getting,” says master antique & millwork refinisher, noting that once you select a product, you’ll have an exact sample to use in coordinating your home’s color palette and choosing other design elements, such as textiles, wall coverings, and cabinetry. Prefinished flooring also takes less time to install, because there's no need to apply color or sealant. “When you choose to do a site finish,” he adds, “you’re rolling the dice a little bit, and relying on the skills of the flooring contractor to get it right.” Still, on-site finishing allows for a level of customization that appeals to many homeowners and designers. “That way, we have a lot more control over the stain and sheen,” says partner of an interior design firm. The final product will be smoother too, notes partner of an interior design firm, because unfinished flooring is typically sanded after it’s nailed down and then finished as a single continuous plane. “It’s a small detail,” she says, “but it does make a difference.”

Choose the Type of Finish

There's a whole spectrum of finishing products, says director of product management, from penetrating oil to oil-like hybrids to site-finish polyurethanes to prefinished UV-cured urethane finishes. But to simplify, most finishes fall into one of two categories: oil or polyurethane. Oil penetrates the wood and has a look and feel “that’s very soft, matte, and natural,” says master antique & millwork refinisher. But it isn’t as impervious to stains and damage as polyurethane, which creates a hard topcoat on the surface of the wood that’s “more resilient to wear and tear, especially for people with children, or when food is flying around the kitchen.” Oil finishes scratch more easily, but also make scratches less noticeable. “They’re also easy to touch up on a spot-by-spot basis when there’s a problem,” says master antique & millwork refinisher. “With polyurethane, you generally need to replace a board or buff and recoat an entire section of floor.” “Maintenance is a pay-me-now-or-pay-me-later proposition,” says director of product management. “With a soft oil finish, you have easier maintenance, but you have to do it more often. The harder you go with polyurethanes, the less often you have to do maintenance, but the more involved the maintenance is to do.”

Consider Wood Types

In North America, oak is the king of hardwood flooring for good reason. “It’s a very durable wood that takes stain very well,” says director of product management. It also has an appealing natural grain and is widely available across the region, leading to reasonable prices. In design circles, white oak is especially popular, because it doesn’t have the pinkish tones of red oak. Walnut is another a popular choice. While slightly softer than oak, it has a deep color that makes it ideal for rooms where a darker finish is desired. “If you’re changing a color, it’s best to start with a natural material that you’re augmenting as little as possible to achieve the shade you want,” says master antique & millwork refinisher. Walnut, he adds, is a natural choice when you desire https://www.mooreflooringdesign.com/fuzion-hardwood/ “a richer, warmer tone.” Other readily available North American hardwoods include hickory, cherry, maple, and ash. The choice largely comes down to personal preference in terms of color and grain.

Pick Your Grain Pattern

Logs are cut in three different ways—plain-sawn, rift-sawn, and quarter-sawn—which yield three different grain patterns. Plain-sawn produces traditional wood grain, with undulating patterns known as cathedrals. “It’s exactly what you think of when you hear the term wood grain,” says master antique & millwork refinisher.

Rift-sawn boards, by comparison, feature a long, linear, consistent grain, without cathedrals. Quarter-sawn boards look similar to rift, but have additional irregular figuring “with iridescent, almost 3D rays that strike out across the plank,” says master antique & millwork refinisher. “That can be very desirable, or not, depending on what you’re looking for.” In most cases, hardwood flooring is sold as plain-sawn, or as rift- and quarter-sawn mixed together. “The mix is nice because it gives you some of that figuring but doesn’t overdo it,” says director of product management. However, it is possible to source exclusively rift-sawn wood or quarter-sawn wood, if desired. There’s no good or bad when it comes to wood grain, says partner of an interior design firm. “It just depends on the application, and what you desire. In a more rustic property, we might use plain sawn; in the city, we might use quarter sawn to add a bit of life.”

Determine Plank Width

Although there was a time when it seemed that almost all hardwood flooring was installed in two- to three-inch strips, many people now use wider planks. “There’s a sense of luxury and expense associated with a wider plank,” says partner of an interior design firm. “Once you exceed the norm, it starts to feel special.” That’s why “a four- to six-inch plank is our standard specification, depending on the size of the room and the application,” she says, noting that, generally, the more expansive the room, the wider the plank they’ll choose. At LV Wood, “seven inches has become our standard wide-plank floor,” says master antique & millwork refinisher, and sizes go up from there. However, he adds, wider planks don’t just look more expensive—they are more expensive. “The wider you go, the more spendy you get.” While a floor composed of wide planks will have fewer seams than a floor of thin strips, it’s important to be aware that those seams may eventually become more prominent as the wood expands and contracts. Because changes in the wood aren’t distributed across as many boards, the movement may appear exaggerated.

Installing Carpet on Steps

A carpeted stairway quiets your home by softening footsteps and absorbing sound waves. Carpeted stairs are safer than hard-surface stairs, as https://www.mooreflooringdesign.com/divine-flooring/ they lessen your chances of slipping and pad your fall if you lose your balance.

Building codes control the dimensions of treads and risers. Treads are typically 10 to 11-1/2 inches deep; the deeper the tread, the more comfortable the climb. Risers are generally no more than 7-3/4 inches tall. If your stairs dimensions are not within these guidelines, for safety's sake you'll need to rebuild them. Stairways get heavy wear, especially along the tread nosing, so choose a carpet that is durable and easy to clean. A carpet with an attached padded backing is easier to put down, but these carpets are not usually recommended for stairways as they have a tendency to wear quickly. 

What You Need

Tape measure

Carpet knife

Hammer stapler

Straightedge

Wall trimmer

Stair tool

Carpet Pad

Tackless strips

Hot melt seaming tape

Seam sealer

Step 1: Cut Carpet Pad

Measure each step individually and cut a quality carpet pad to fit each step and riser as shown. The pad should be cut to precisely fit between the tackless strips that you'll be nailing to the back of the tread and the bottom of the riser.

If your staircase curves or if the walls are not plumb, you won't be able to use a template to cut the carpet pieces for each step. Instead you'll need to measure each step and cut the carpet to fit.

Step 2: Apply Tackless Strips 

Carefully place tackless strips on the riser and back of each tread as shown. To determine how high to place the tack strips, use a spacer made out of two strips taped together. Make a spacer by taping two tack strips together. This will help you properly position your tackless strips.

Step 3: Staple Carpet Pad

Using a hammer stapler and starting in the center of each stair tread, staple the carpet pad in place. Staple across the entire length of the pad. (Staple the pad just in front of the tackless strip.)

Step 4: Shape Pad to Step 

Wrap the carpet pad around the front edge of the steps and down the riser. Smooth and stretch the pad so that it fits tightly against both the tread and riser, then staple pad to riser. When all the padding is attached you'll need to make a template and cut the carpet to fit.

Step 5: Measure for Carpet 

Using a tape measure, measure the stair and riser and add 4 to 6 inches (or more if your steps are deeper) to the stair width to cover the edges.

Step 6: Make Template 

To make the template, measure each individual step and riser, as they may not all be built to the exact same dimension. Using a tape measure and a straightedge, cut the carpet to template size.

Step 7: Begin Installation

Center the carpet on the bottom edge of the steps. Use an awl to push the carpet onto the tackless strip. This creates a clean line between the bottom of the stairs and the flooring.

Step 8: Staple Carpet

When you are satisified with the carpet placement, staple the carpet onto the riser just below the tread taking care not to staple through the fold. Wiggle the electric carpet tacker between the nap to hide the staple impressions.

Step 9: Push Carpet Into Seam

Using a knee kicker, stretch the carpet into the seam between the tread and the riser. Start in the middle and work side to side.

Step 10: Crease Carpet and Repeat

Fold the edges around the step and use a stair tool and a rubber mallet to crease the carpet into the seam and secure it to the tackless strip. Repeat Steps 7 through 10 for each remaining step.

Installing Carpet on Steps

A carpeted stairway quiets your home by softening footsteps and absorbing sound waves. Carpeted stairs are safer than hard-surface stairs, as they lessen your chances of slipping and pad your fall if you lose your balance.

Building codes control the dimensions of treads and risers. Treads are typically 10 to 11-1/2 inches deep; the deeper the tread, the more comfortable the climb. Risers are generally no more than 7-3/4 inches tall. If your stairs dimensions are not within these guidelines, for safety's sake you'll need to rebuild them. Stairways get heavy wear, especially along the tread nosing, so choose a carpet that is durable and easy to clean. A carpet with an attached padded backing is easier to put down, but these carpets are not usually recommended for stairways as they have a tendency to wear quickly. 

What You Need

Tape measure

Carpet knife

Hammer stapler

Straightedge

Wall trimmer

Stair tool

Carpet Pad

Tackless strips

Hot melt seaming tape

Seam sealer

Step 1: Cut Carpet Pad

Measure each step individually and cut a quality carpet pad to fit each step and riser as shown. The pad should be cut to precisely fit between the tackless strips that you'll be nailing to the back of the tread and the bottom of the riser.

If your staircase curves or if the walls are not plumb, you won't be able to use a template to cut the carpet pieces for each step. Instead you'll need to measure each step and cut the carpet to fit.

Step 2: Apply Tackless Strips 

Carefully place tackless strips on the riser and back of each tread as shown. To determine how high to place the tack strips, use a spacer made out of two strips taped together. Make a spacer by taping two tack strips together. This will help you properly position your tackless strips.

Step 3: Staple Carpet Pad

Using a hammer stapler and starting in the center of each stair tread, staple the carpet pad in place. Staple across the entire length of the pad. (Staple the pad just in front of the tackless strip.)

Step 4: Shape Pad to Step 

Wrap the carpet pad around the front edge of the steps and down the riser. Smooth and stretch the pad so that it fits tightly against both the tread and riser, then staple pad to riser. When all the padding is attached you'll need to make a template and cut the carpet to fit.

Step 5: Measure for Carpet 

Using a tape measure, measure the stair and riser and add 4 to 6 inches (or more if your steps are deeper) to the stair width to cover the edges.

Step 6: Make Template 

To make the template, measure each individual step and riser, as they may not all be built to the exact same dimension. Using a tape measure and a straightedge, cut the carpet to template size.

Step 7: Begin Installation

Center the carpet on the bottom edge of the steps. Use an https://www.mooreflooringdesign.com/divine-flooring/ awl to push the carpet onto the tackless strip. This creates a clean line between the bottom of the stairs and the flooring.

Step 8: Staple Carpet

When you are satisified with the carpet placement, staple the carpet onto the riser just below the tread taking care not to staple through the fold. Wiggle the electric carpet tacker between the nap to hide the staple impressions.

Step 9: Push Carpet Into Seam

Using a knee kicker, stretch the carpet into the seam between the tread and the riser. Start in the middle and work side to side.

Step 10: Crease Carpet and Repeat

Fold the edges around the step and use a stair tool and a rubber mallet to crease the carpet into the seam and secure it to the tackless strip. Repeat Steps 7 through 10 for each remaining step.

The 9 Main Benefits Of Solid Hardwood Flooring

Whether you’re looking to renovate your residential or commercial space, solid hardwood flooring is a reliable and attractive choice. Said to lend a sense of permanence to interiors, it has been a popular flooring choice for centuries. 

9 Reasons Solid Hardwood Flooring Is a Great Choice for Your Project

Straight-forward installation for those with experience Quality hardwood floors are specifically milled to ensure a uniform and stable fit. The choice between finished and unfinished hardwood floors is an important factor in this, of course.

Easy to clean Hardwood floors are very easy to clean as they do not accumulate a lot of dirt, dust, and debris. A weekly cleaning procedure involves vacuuming, moping and keeping the floor dry. That’s it!

High quality look Along with an elegant, high-end aesthetic, hardwood floors offer the warmth, beauty, and value of wood, which never goes out of style. Hardwood floors are also said to enable a look of spaciousness wherever they are installed.

Strength and durability High quality hardwood floors that are kiln-dried, manufactured, installed, and finished to certain standards can last for generations. Able to stand up to active workspaces and heavy foot traffic, quality hardwood floors are tough, hard-wearing, and have long term durability.

A great long-term investment Choosing hardwood floors increases the value of your property. It is a great long-term investment and can actually become a strong resale argument, exceeding the initial installation cost of the floors. It also enables a faster sale and brings higher prices at the time of resale.

Variety Hardwood floors offer a wide range of appearances. There are many colors, styles, stains, and species available. In addition, you can choose between pre-finished and unfinished hardwood floors. No matter how diverse and unique your needs are, there are many hardwood flooring options available.

Better acoustics A properly installed hardwood floor never gives you hollow sounds or vibrations.

Healthy indoor air quality These floors are a healthy choice for interior environments. It has no fibers, grout lines, or embossing that can trap dust, pollen, particles, animal dander, and allergens that occur with carpets. They are the best choice of flooring with allergy sufferers and contribute to healthier indoor air quality.

Ageless quality When other floors will begin to look tired and worn, your hardwood floors will still look beautiful. And your hardwood floors become more valuable as time goes by. Also keep in mind that unlike carpeting and vinyl, hardwood floors can be refinished rather than replaced when the finish needs https://www.mooreflooringdesign.com/divine-flooring/ an update.